Arrived safe and sound at the finish line!

Well, here we are (Steph, Whitney, Shane and Abby), at the Lewis's preparing Thanksgiving dinner, and feeling very thankful for the experience we have had over the last five and a half months.

New Brunswick treated us so well! Canoe Kayak New Brunswick, the Fundy Paddlers, Simon from the St. John River Society, the Lewis's and the Ringham's ensured that our final trek to the Bay of Fundy was uplifiting and enjoyable. The kindness shared by all of our supporters really showed us that this trip is not just about our crew and our cause, it's about the community and the connections "the Odyssey" has created. The first connection was built with each other, by setting out to accomplish a common goal, and the treacherous work of crossing the mountains. The second connection was that of our families, to each other, and to our cause, of protecting our freshwater resources. And then, slowly, as we each built our own personal connection with the waterways we travelled and the land we learned about, a community of support grew and flourished as we learned of people following our adventure and thinking of ways that they too can step outside their comfort zone and feel the joy of adventure, no matter how big or small.

So really, on Thanksgiving, I'm thankful for YOU, anyone who is reading our blog, and thinking of their own ways to follow their dreams, build connections with our beautiful country and our own community.

Over the next few weeks, as everyone returns to their homes and readjusts to normal life, we will still have stories to share on our blog from our incredible jouney between Ottawa and St. John. Stay tuned! <Steph>

Entering Quebec

It was a beautiful sunny afternoon as we paddled away from the Parliament buildings of downtown Ottawa. Max Finkelstein accompanied us in his solo canoe, which had once brought him along much of the same route across this amazing country. As I looked back over my shoulder at the trees starting to sparkle gold in the valley, I was reminded just how fortunate we are to travel Canada’s waterways.

Our time in Ottawa proved to be more then just a typical re-supply point. We met up with Andrea McNeil from the Canadian Heritage Rivers Systems, Alex from the other group of canoeists, TranscaEAUda, and loads of other friends and family during our stay. We were also honoured to be welcomed into the home of Max and Connie Finkelstein. Max’s book Canoeing a Continent served as an invaluable resource during our preparations and we had contacted him before the trip for some advice. Having the opportunity to sit and share stories with someone who has been such an inspiration to us was truly a surreal experience.

Even though we had so much fun in Ottawa, getting back on the water always feels like returning back home; where we are most relaxed and comfortable. That being said, the journey between Ottawa and Montreal left our “home” less serene than usual. The heavily populated area forced us to find makeshift campsites on the outskirts of towns, in city parks, or near over passes, blurring the line between camping and homelessness (an ongoing debate in our group).

We enjoyed the sunshine and tailwind that accompanied us on the Ottawa River to the massive Carillon Locks, which lowered our canoes 20 m (65ft). The hydro-dam and present lock at Carillon were built between 1959 and 1963, replacing the 11 locks of the original canal system, and saving us a lot of time!

Once past there, the current slowed a little and we made our way to Lachine, dodging sail and power boats along the way, and meeting up with the St Lawrence briefly before heading into the canal system to bypass the mighty Lachine rapids. Passing the Lachine canoe club we ran into an old sprint kayaking friend of Stephanie and I, and later we were visited by Abby’s friend Jennie Mae Roy who brought us some delicious chocolate chip cookies! Our slow progress through the locks was making us anxious because we had been invited to attend the end of trip celebration for our fellow paddlers Mountains to Montreal. Their expedition had begun around the same time as ours, in Rocky Mountain House, AB and we were fortunate enough to have met up with them a number of times throughout our journey. We wanted to share in their excitement of finishing such a grand adventure, but unfortunately, just before we made it to the meeting spot we got a call from them to say that the event had already wrapped up. We were so disappointed.

We decided to stop in Old Montreal anyway, look around the town a little and of course, get poutines to cheer us up!

Our spirits raised again, we headed out of the city, to find somewhere we would be able to camp.

With the St. Laurence coming in on the right, and the strong currents converging in the center, this was tough water to handle. But we are experienced paddlers, we can handle currents, no problem! Add in some huge yachts, a few power boats zooming towards us in the no wake zone, and an irate speedboat honking and screaming at us, and the situation suddenly seemed out of our league. Where we come from, non-motorized boats have the right of way, but out there what it came down to was: we are small, and they are big. As I met eyes with the man who was driving one speedboat, and shook my head side to side as he smiled at me and sped away leaving the biggest wake I’ve ever seen to crash down on top of us, I knew we had to get out of there and fast! We stopped under the next bridge to calm our nerves, strap in any loose gear, and to make a game plan: stay together, stay close to shore and if you feel uncomfortable head for land. Luckily, after that the river opened up, the boat traffic slowed and we were no longer scared for our lives. So, it was now time to celebrate! We made it to the St Lawrence River!

The next few days we watched the landscape change from prairie flat farm land, to rolling hills and high cliffs.  We watched the freighters go by, stopping at the massive ports and huge factories along the riverside. We stopped in at the marinas and charming towns of rural Quebec, meeting friendly folks along the way. As we approached Quebec City, the river started to be affected by the tides, limiting our optimal paddling to the 6 hours when the tide was flowing out to sea. This also meant long treks through the muddy tidal flats to pull the boats up at night- a small price to pay for the fortuity of paddling the St Lawrence. Little did we know that the best of this mighty river was yet to come!  <Whitney>　

Kind hospitality and heritage waterways

Before starting the trip we were asked where we were most looking forward to paddling, and many of us replied: home. And for me, coming home to Ontario, has certainly been one of the highlights of this trip. After our wonderful séjour in Sudbury, we left the North Channel Yacht Club (NCYC) accompanied by a sailboat crewed by my uncle and grandfather for two days. Our first day back on the water, we watched dark, ominous clouds skirt passed us, showering the surrounding hills of Georgian Bay instead. We were greeted in Killarney by my excited family members and a father son team of canoers. These fellow canoers, Mountains 2 Montreal (M2M) group. M2M left Rocky Mountain House AB this spring. Throughout our journey we’d often heard of this charismatic group from people we`d meet and felt like they`d been with us all along. We spent the next two days with them, swapping stories, paddling partners, and a few drinks. 

The French River is a part of the Canadian Heritage River System, a program that aims to conserve rivers with outstanding natural, cultural and recreational heritage, to give them national recognition, and to encourage the public to enjoy and appreciate them. The mouth of the French River, especially the Old Voyageur channel, was a real treat to paddle through. The channel is comprised of multiple small passages, narrowings, and shelves, requiring minimal portaging. At one point we found ourselves paddling through a channel no wider than the 33” beam of our Clipper Whitewater II canoes. I was paddling M2M’s Clipper Mariner that had to be tilted in order to pass! Paddling the big boat was tons of fun and the company was stupendous. I have however become accustomed to paddling lightweight paddles and had to abandon their wooden otter tail paddles within minutes. My hat’s off to the M2M crew for maintaining their impressive stroke rate with these heavier paddles. We were pleased to see so many marked and well maintained campsites along this river. We stopped with M2M at the French River Interpretative Centre, located where the river crosses Hwy 69. Here, we were thoroughly impressed by the eye catching and comprehensive exhibits and displays, related to the cultural and natural resources of the region; we highly recommend our readers visit this gem. Our only complaint with regards to the interpretative centre is its relative inaccessibility from the river. We climbed a hill covered in loose boulders and poison ivy before making our way across the highway bridge. Despite soapy washings, poison ivy welts now dominate Stephanie’s lower legs, and have been continuously creeping farther up her body. 

The next big highlight was paddling across Lake Nipissing and arriving in North Bay. We crossed the lake in an afternoon with an increasing tail wind. Riding the waves we accelerated towards the marina beach and came crashing in at formidable speeds. Once in North Bay we were greeted by dear Saskatchewan friends Tiera and Ashley, paddling with us until Ottawa, and the first of many in a recent string of generous hosts. Ray and Cheryl, of the NCYC, took us into their home and stopped at nothing to try and make our stay more comfortable. They thought of everything: including tracking down maps of the Mattawa River, contacting local media, and charting the most efficient portage route through North Bay. We chose to portage using North Bay’s city streets instead of the historical Le Vase portage route in order to save time and to avoid the numerous mucky portages and swamps that comprise this route. 

We also managed to avoid many of the well-marked portages along the Mattawa River by lining, dragging, or skillfully paddling down the series of small rapids. It was great fun having Tiera and Ashley along. A great example of their playful, creative, and loving manner was exhibited when we jumped from tall rocks at Talon Chutes. The 17 minutes it took everyone to muster up the courage to jump was videotaped and we look forward to reviewing the graceful and graceless entries. 

Our next gracious host flagged us down from the shore in Mattawa. It was my grandfather’s cousin’s husband, Roger Labelle. We were welcomed at a neighbourhood fish fry and later viewed Roger’s hand crafted birch bark canoes. We marveled as he explained how to remove the bark from the tree, how the ribs are bent then shifted towards the ends of the canoe to hold down the cedar strips, and the strength of leatherwood shrubs used to tie it all together. He uses three ingredients in the canoe’s gum: spruce sap, wood ash (to keep the gum from melting in the hot sun), and bear grease (to increase its malleability and to prevent cracking). I’m glad that this trip’s given me the opportunity to visit and learn from Roger and wife, Lucille, (celebrating their 60th wedding anniversary this month!!) relatives I likely would’ve otherwise never gotten the chance to get to know. 

The confluence of the Mattawa and Ottawa Rivers was the start of some beautiful scenery: tall, forested hills line the Ottawa River and appear stunning throughout. These wonderful hills however also funnel the wind. Thus, a headwind, combined with minimal current due to numerous dams, slowed our progress down the Ottawa River. We used our wheels to portage the canoes along most of the routes suggested by Ontario Hydro. The hills made finding suitable campsites somewhat challenging, and we were glad when members of the Delayney family came to greet us on the river near Deep River and kindly invited us over to their warm and lovely home for the night. Mike Ranta and dog, Spitz, paddling solo from Rocky Mountain House to raise money for Atikokan youth, also spent that night at the Delayney’s, sharing in the exchange of adventure stories. We spent the following night camped at the home in Pembroke of NCYC members: Bob and Lucille. We were treated to a tour of their lovely home filled with Bob’s handcrafted furniture and artwork. We’re still talking about the delicious venison bourguignon stew and ice cream topped with warm peaches and melted chocolate they served. Bob and Lucille had an unassuming grace with which they did everything so well, and we thoroughly enjoyed their company. 

Leaving Pembroke, we stayed in the channel near the Quebec shoreline and enjoyed some of the few sets of rapids we’ve gotten to run. The boys became somewhat reminiscent of their homes as the hills along the shoreline gave way to agricultural and grassy fields. Soon we came across another familiar sight as we approached the dam near Arnprior, the voyageur canoe of the M2M crew. We portaged on the Quebec side through open forest and paddled across a tiny wetland. The M2M crew had lightened their load, and we struggled to keep up with them as we approached Ottawa. We were also greeted by a pair of swiftly moving boats crews by Abby`s father, Dave, and sister, Bev; and Trevor and family, from Saskatoon. The group had recently taken part in the Shawinigan marathon canoe race and spotting them approaching on the river was a delightful surprise. Coming into Ottawa`s city limits we found ourselves in the middle of a sailboat race and were somewhat nervous as we realized that we were sitting next the finish line buoy and that the boats were barreling towards us, before doing an impressive 90 degree turn (switching their trajectory away from us) and opening up colourful parachute-like sails. More excitement followed as we scrapped our way down the Deschenes Rapids then met with Max Finkelstein (accomplished canoeist, Ottawa River keeper, and all around neat guy) and Andrea McNeil (manager of the Canadian Heritage River System and friendly as heck). We had the chance to speak with a few media people before taking off from at the base of parliament hill (links below coming soon). It certainly feels like we’re on the home stretch now: the days are getting shorter, colder, and rainier, the leaves are starting to change colours, and we’re bubbly with the excitement of achieving our goal. Bay of Fundy, here we come!! <Nathalie>

Friendly faces on the shores of the Great Lakes

On August 7th, under a blanket of thick fog, we departed the community of Silver Islet located on the Sibley Peninsula near Thunder Bay. After enjoying incredible hospitality, a springboard diving competition, a sauna, and several pieces of homemade pie at Silver Islet, we bade farewell to the quaint town and the friends we’d made there, to Ross’ parents, and headed back out onto the Lake. And what a glorious lake it is! That day, visibility was poor and we were fortunate to have the sailboat Hakuna Matata, crewed by Nathalie’s Uncle Gilles and Papa Andy, to guide us across the first bay and back on our way. These Brunet brothers remained nearby up to Sault Ste. Marie. We enjoyed their company so much; the fatherly hugs, beers in the wilderness, weather updates, navigation advice, and genuine good humour. These guys are great!! It took us 14 days to paddle from Grand Portage to Sault Ste. Marie, some days we covered up to 65 kilometres. We had several days of calm paddling when the water was like glass, un
characteristic of Lake Superior at this time of year. There were many days that we fought a headwind, or worked with a tailwind or cross wind but thankfully only a few partial days were spent waiting on shore for the wind to decrease.
We’d long heard great legends of the North shore of Superior, it is rumoured to be dotted with fishing camps and saunas, open for the use of those who know where to find them. After our journey to the North Shore and back again, I am willing neither to confirm nor deny the existence of such fantastic places, it’s one of those mysteries you’ll have to investigate for yourself. I can attest to the incredible beauty of Lake Superior. The ever-changing shoreline of rocky cliffs, lush green hills and white sand beaches that border the water filled us with awe. But the most unexpected for me was the colour of the water; beautiful shades of blue, green and turquoise. The water itself, sometimes smooth and calm, can also be impressively powerful making the lake one of the most dangerous bodies of water in North America. The huge sky provides the entertainment of the day, watching storms roll by, fog settle and disperse, the glowing sunrises and sunsets. Lake Superior never ceases to impress those who travel its waters.
Off the coast of Pukaskwa National Park we met a Parks Canada patrol which informed us that the park was closed to backcountry campers due to a bear attack the week before. We had heard about the attack on the radio in Silver Islet and had planned to paddle past the park boundary in one day. The Park employees left us with a radio to call them in case we didn’t make our destination by nightfall. We continued paddling hard but by 7pm we were still 20km from the Park boundary with a storm building all around us, so after a brief radio call we were instructed to meet a Parks boat and spend the night at the Weidman’s Island warden cabin. Within an hour and a half we were speeding down Lake Superior under a stunning pink and yellow sunset with lush forest, beaches and rugged cliffs flying past. After camping the night on the island with a few friendly park staff, we were returned to our canoes in the same way, and continued out of Pukaskwa National Park. We were tremendously appreciative of the park staff for allowing us to paddle on through.
Days later, as we fought the wind crossing Whitefish Bay to Sault Ste. Marie, we were met by Whitney’s parents who commandeered a motor boat to come and pay us a visit. They were amazed by how well our Clipper Whitewater II canoes handled through the big swells, while they were being tossed around in their motor boat. There smiling faces and endless photos showed just how proud of us they were. They met us for dinner in Sault Ste. Marie, and for the following two days along Saint Mary’s River and Lake Huron with snacks and meals. Going through the locks at Sault Ste. Marie was neat. We entered through a thick metal gate and held fast to the cement wall. The water was drained from the channel and we were lowered ~30 feet to the level of Lake Huron. The process took no more than fifteen minutes; we left through a similarly menacing gate to enter the river channel that would bring us to our second of the Great Lakes and onward to the rest of Canada.
This section of our trip, as jam-packed as it was with delightful beauty, was also one of the most physically and mentally draining parts that we’ve yet experienced. We’ve been bone-tired, we’ve been sick, and we’ve had our moments of grumpiness. A head cold brought Ross and I down midway through the lake, and hung on for far too long. A stomach flu-like sickness plagued us last week, beginning with Shane, moving to Ross and Nathalie, then Steph, then me. Only Whitney has remained healthy. There were moments when it seemed that we were just so far from our destination and making such slow progress that it seemed difficult to ward off a negative outlook. We’ve found that singing- and usually at the top of our lungs- works best to cure us of poor mind-set in stressful or tough situations. There has been many a long afternoon when I’ve been drifting into a mental funk only to be snapped back into a good attitude by Whitney belting out the words to a favourite song. It seems insane that we could possibly feel gloomy when we truly are living a dream every single day and I can’t begin to explain why this happens, but it can happen if we’re not careful to keep ourselves smiling.
Our welcome at the North Channel Yacht Club set the tone for our stay in Sudbury: we were greeted by a crowd of amazingly kind and inquisitive folks including members of Nathalie’s family and members of the Yacht Club, and a potluck dinner. We were shuttled to Sudbury and are now staying at the home of Andy and Monique Brunet, Nathalie’s parents. These two rest days have allowed us time and space to once again reorganize gear and food, and to recharge our bodies and minds for the rest of our journey. We’re ready to carry on to the Georgian Bay and beyond! <Abby>

Superior is awesome!

After the numerous portages of Quetico Provincial Park and the Boundary Waters, we find ourselves on the magnificent Lake Superior. Since Rainy Lake, we have been hopping from lake to lake, by a variety of ponds, rivers, creeks and portages. Although often unpopular among canoers, some portages have been quite enjoyable, filled with fresh raspberries and blueberries! Our favourite is when we can bypass the portage by lining the boats upstream.
This portion of our route has largely followed the waterways comprising the border between Canada and the United States in Northwestern Ontario. The 250 km route from Lac la Croix, east to Lake Superior via La Verendrye River Provincial Park has been designated the Boundary Waters Voyageur Waterway by the Canadian Heritage Rivers System. A listing of other waterways designated by the Canadian Heritage Rivers System can be found on their website. At Loon Falls, where we portaged into Lac la Croix, we were impressed by the motorised rail system used to transport motor boats between lake systems. We spent the night with a wonderful couple, Dana and Fred who used to operate the rail system. Before the construction of a road to the Lac la Croix reserve, the rail system was the only way to get to Fort Frances, and was a busy place!
Throughout the trip, we have employed the "bridge sprints” rule that marathon paddlers from home use during training sessions: if you see a bridge, you try to get there first, by either distracting your competitor, sneakily riding your neighbour’s wave, or just racing to get there if the other strategies failed. We had heard that Janice, the Quetico ranger at the Cache Bay station, could provide us with some interesting information regarding the region, so as we came around the corner, and saw the Quetico flag for the Cache Bay station, we got to racing (it had been a while since the last bridge). As we pulled up to the dock, Janice came down and gleefully stated "I have not heard the word ‘hut’ in many years!”. We took a long lunch while Janice shared her stories of her time marathon racing, her 27 years as a ranger on the island in the park, and her encounters with other cross Canada groups, including Max Finkelstein (Canoeing a Continent: on the trail of Alexander MacKenzie), Roman Rockcliff and Frank Wolf, who paddled from St. John to Vancouver in 1995 (http://www.clippercanoes.com/c2c.php), and the Mountains 2 Montreal group who started May 1st of this year from Rocky Mountain House (www.mountains2montreal.ca). Janice promotes the importance of treating the land with care, and really encourages youth to spend time in the park, and to later return with their friends. For me, this really struck home, as I have been reading "Last Child in the Woods” by Richard Louv. Having grown up as a city kid who always appreciated the mornings I spent in my kayak on a calm Wascana Lake, I believe in the message of the story as it presents the importance of the calming effects of nature in healthy childhood development. For the first time along the trip, we encountered numerous other canoers, mostly Boy Scout and YMCA groups from Minnesota and various other parts of the United States. We were impressed by the enthusiasm of these youths, and the positive impact these trips have on the groups is apparent. I loved the boisterous laughter of the young boys and the giggles of the teenage girls as they solo portaged their canoes across treacherous trail without complaint.
The 40+ portages (actually >40!!! We counted!!) through Quetico and Boundary Waters really made it seem like our daily goal was just around the corner, but we just couldn’t quite get there. When we met with the Trans CanEAUda crew on the Winnipeg River, they mentioned burgers at the Gunflint Lodge. It felt like it was our goal to get to that lodge for three days--- "it’s just after the next portage” we all kept thinking. The burgers and moose tracks ice cream were well worth the wait!
After a slight wrong turn leaving Gunflint Lake, we encountered a canoe of two men dressed in voyageur garb who were paddling to the "Rendezvous", where Voyageurs from east and west would meet for a festival at Grand Portage . Their characters were from Fort Frances and Fond du Lac (now Duluth), Minnesota; they wore Metis belts, used canvas tents, forehead straps for the portages and even made their own moccasins. These men had a real passion for voyageur history. They sung "O Canada” for us as we paddled away.
At this point, we thought our portaging days were coming to a close, especially when the height of land portage went swiftly. This portage marked our entry into a new major watershed, where water now flows towards our final destination, the Atlantic Ocean. Following the Howse River in Alberta, we have been paddling on water bodies that drain towards the major basin of Hudson Bay. In the Lake Superior basin, the portages increased in length, muddiness and treachery. In due time, we made our way to the Pigeon River, and were surprised by Rhonda and Dave Phillips at Partridge Falls. We decided to call it a day and take a little rest before making our way into the community of Grand Portage, and spent the evening enjoying the Partridge falls, as well as burgers and beers courtesy of the Phillips.
The amount of gear necessary to complete a journey of this magnitude made it nearly impossible to complete portages in one trip, unless we were able to use our "expedition carts”. As a result, we chose to portage using minor roads into the community of Grand Portage on the shore of Lake Superior. This decision saved our bodies from the long, muddy and difficult ~13 km "Grand Portage” trail historically used by the Voyageurs. As we made our way into Grand Portage, we were struck by the beautiful Lake Superior! We were excited for a new challenge, a change of pace, and to avoid portaging for a little while. We paddled past the huge Fort as we made our way back into Canada. As we crossed into Canada, we were greeted by Nathalie’s Uncle Gill and dad, Andy, travelling by sailboat! It will be wonderful to have their smiling faces around for the next couple weeks.
Our first couple days on Superior have been wonderful. The water is clear, cold, and refreshing. The view is spectacular! We have already had our first wind-stayed afternoon on Pie Island waiting to cross towards the Sleeping Giant. As the sun rose this morning, we paddled across the calmer water and were blown away by the sight of the rocky cliffs, lush forests, and bigness of the water. I’m looking forward to getting to know this beautiful and historical lake! Today we are resting and reorganizing at Silver Islet, a quaint little town near Thunder Bay, where they have a great pie and pastry shop, and plenty of warm hearted folks. After Shane binged on donuts in Fort Frances, Shane bet me a pie in the face that he would not eat any treats the whole time we are on the Great Lakes. I wonder how long he will last! <Steph>

Plenty of portages from Kenora to Rainy Lake

As we approached Kenora we were met by some of Ross' family, who had brought us delicious snacks and cold drinks to enjoy on our quick portage over the Keewatin Boat lift. The short paddle to the campsite from there was interesting, if not slightly terrifying, with planes taking off close by, and boats speeding past from every direction. We spent the rest of the afternoon, doing boat repairs, organizing food, and trimming gear for the upcoming section. We had decided to adjust our route, hopping from lake to lake, and avoid paddling upstream on the Rainy River, and hopefully making up some time.
Our first day onto Lake of the Woods, we were followed by dark ominous clouds, and as thunder and lightning approached from the distance, we decided to take refuge on an island, with another group of canoers from a nearby kids camp. We had just enough time to set up our tarp and pull the boats out of the water before the storm hit. We sat in our makeshift shelter and shared stories and coffee as we waited out the torrential downpour and tempestuous winds. Luckily, it past quickly and before long, we were saying our goodbyes and were back on the water.
The following days were filled with sunshine, swimming, and lots of portages. We made our way from Lake of the Woods to Kakagi Lake to Osapisinni, to Sandhill, to Schistose, to Pipestone, to Stonedam, to Loonhaunt, to Jackfish, to Footprint, to Despair, and finally to Rainy lake. The portages ranged in distance and difficulty. Many of the trials were maintained by fisherman and cabin owners who seemed to leave motorboats on either side of the trail for ease of transport, and even though we only passed a few cabins on the lakes, sometimes there were up to 20 motorboats sitting at the end of a chain of lakes. Others, clearly hadn't been maintained for years and challenged us with fallen trees, thick reeds, or beaver dams built across the trail. Some, to our pleasant surprise, we found wild raspberries, blueberries and saskatoon berries to pick along the way! The portages have been a fun and exciting challenge and the beautiful scenery in the area have made this section of the trip truly unforgettable.
We are now at Labelles Birch Point Lodge, 50 kms north of Fort Frances, staying in a beautiful cabin courtesy of Mrs Phillips, preparing for our next stage of the trip. The usual organizing, food preparations and downloads are accompanied with a trip down to International Falls to obtain the necessary permits to cross the border into the States during this next portion that will take us through the Boundary Waters, Quetico Provincial Park and on to Grand Portage.
Over the last 97 days we have grown from acquaintances, to friends, and have now become like a family. We are together, all day, every day, and yet we continue to get along, growing closer all the while. We have all stepped into our respective roles, working as a team to efficiently complete our everyday tasks: setting up tents, cooking meals, doing dishes and packing boats, and when faced with unexpected challenges, our ability to work as a team becomes especially evident. We spend our days sharing stories, joking with each other and discussing everything from the foods we wish we had, to how to make the world a better place.
When Ross is not focused on the map, navigating us through jumbles of lakes and islands, his silly songs and antics entertain us, and his encyclopedic knowledge of world history educates us. Shane ensures we chat with the passing motorboats on the water, always asking "How's the fishing?” and with him around you always feel like your with an older brother. Nathalie's giggles are infectious and we never tire of her random stories. Stephanie, with her childlike ability to be amazed at every new site; declaring everyday, "This is the best day ever!”. Abby is always there to keep our spirits high, amazing us with hidden talents and hilarious jokes. As I look around, the constant smiling reminds me how extraordinarily lucky we are to spend each day, paddling our canoes, with friends, discovering and getting to know our most precious resource <Steph and Whitney>.

The delightful Winnipeg River

Paddling the Winnipeg River was genuinely delightful! The weather’s been hot and sunny, and we’ve been swimming plenty. The winds have been slight, a pleasant change from the relentless headwinds we’d been previously enduring. There are no fewer than six hydroelectric dams located along the Winnipeg River. We’ve made use of our expedition canoe carts once again to bypass many of these. We have however discovered the upper limit of how much highway travel these carts can endure. Traveling to St. Georges MB we were forced to remediate a punctured inner tube then a collapsed wheel hub. Thankfully, two separate friendly Manitoban mechanics came to our rescue replacing the rarely dimensioned inner tube and machining a fitting to slip in between the hub and axle. The kindness of strangers continues to humble us, whether it’s been filling water bottles from garden hoses, being provided with fruit snacks and cold drinks, or tips about the quickness of the river and portage difficulties, we’re tremendously grateful. Equipped with shiny new carts (delivered by Ross’ mother visiting family in the region) and local knowledge, we portaged once again from White Mud Falls to McArthur Falls and from Pinawa Bay to Pointe du Bois. Our boat caravan has become a familiar site along Manitoba’s secondary highways.
The section after Pointe du Bois made for wonderful paddling. The Whiteshell provincial park maintains a number of campsites along the river. We met a kind man responsible for traveling to these remote sites, cutting the grass twice weekly. He was camped on an island next to a set of swifts that were a real thrill to swim down. The cold "Busch” beers he shared with us were among the most delicious we’d ever tasted! That night we camped at a lovely perched site on Levasseur Island, surrounded by oak trees. We had a celebratory swim at the Ontario border; I’m happy to be nearing home and have to admit that I’ve missed these familiar shield landscapes. The portage over Slave Falls was quick and painless.
Paddling upstream has been rather efficient, we’re averaging up to 9 km/hr hopping eddies. I’ve nearly mastered steering the boat around tight corners and not getting pushed out by the shoots. It’s a fine balance of sticking ultra-close (often too close for my comfort) to the jagged rocks, but not so close that you scrape your paddle or get surprised by a shallow rock lying just around the corner. A few of these rocks have already taken bites out the boat’s gel coats. We’ve bounced around a few ideas for front bumpers, but have yet to find an adequate solution. We’ve had to line the boats up a few fast water sections, but by and large, we’ve been able to muscle up most of these sections. It was paddling up a narrow, fast moving section that we came across another group of TransCanada canoeists. The Trans CanEAUda crew aims to paddle from Ottawa, ON to Inuvik, NWT. Spending the night with them we talked food, gear, paddling techniques, dream campsites, and the general wonders of paddling we each enjoy. It was surprising how both crews had devised similar solutions to common problems, such as getting out of bed in the morning. I was blissfully happy that night, watching the sunset from my swimming spot, listening to their sweet guitar and harmonica playing, and enduring French banter. Following a group photo shoot the next morning, we went our separate ways. We’re currently in Kenora ON, dodging motor boat traffic, looking forward to continuing our adventure through the beautiful lakes of north western Ontario. <Nathalie>

Departing Winnipeg

Departing Winnipeg we were accompanied by swift paddling friends from the local marathon canoe racing community. The paddle was excellent, and our spirits were lifted as our flotilla of canoes grew from three to seven. We always appreciate having some company.
The day after leaving Winnipeg we woke to overcast skies and a persistent wind. We recognized the wind but thought it to be minor and coming from a favourable direction. Paddling through the Netley Marsh we were able paddle close to the reed grass and limit the effect of the side waves. Emerging from the safety of the Red River Delta in the Netley marsh we were immediately buffeted with swells rising to as high as ten feet with irregular caps. What had seemed to be a west wind was indeed a northwest wind and much stronger than it had previously seemed. We struggled east for two hours as we sought to get past the Netley Marsh to the east shore of Lake Winnipeg. With our hearts racing and our knuckles white we tried to stay calm and keep an eye on the other boats. With every crest and trough the boats came in and out of view. Twice I was jarred sideways as a wall of water crashed into my side hitting as high as my face. I gasped for air as I nervously watched a foot and half wall of water charge sideways across the deck of the boat. I appreciated our Northwater spray decks and the stability of our Clipper Whitewater Two’s more than ever in that moment. That may have been one of the longest 14 km of my life. The point marking Patricia Beach approached at an agonisingly slow pace. We finally rounded the point and the thin ribbon of beach came into view. We surfed down the tail waves towards shore. Luckily, on such a miserable day few people were using the beach and we could head for the safest landing possible – right on the beach itself. We had only one spectator who looked on as we staggered to shore. Through the break water we took one wave, then a second wave, and finally a third. I was no longer paddling. I was bracing feverishly and trying to keep our waterladen boat upright as the waves continued to push us to shore. Dry Land! We had made it. I jumped up and as Nathalie and I pulled the boat on to shore we reeled as we tried to guide the other two boats to shore. First was Shane and Abby who raced in surfing the waves at speeds of more than 13 km/hr. Abby had one foot out the side of the boat, ready to jump at the earliest opportunity. I sprinted through the waves to collect few things (i.e. sour candies) that the waves had snatched from Shane and Abby’s deck. Our second boat was in. We focused our attention on the third and final boat. Steph and Whitney had taken on some water and were working hard to control their boat through the waves. As they hit the second wave of the breakwater, the boat spun and leaned to the left, and both Whitney and Stephanie dove from the boat. The four of us who had already been on shore grabbed hold of the boat and guided it into shore. On the beach we all looked at each other with drawn faces. Faces which signalled bodies with little energy left to exert. Faces that said only one thing: ``We had made it.`` Our two hours on Lake Winnipeg were quite enough and we were eager to leave Manitoba`s lakes by portaging to St. George on the Winnipeg River. <Ross>

Manitoba's Great Lakes

Our rest day in The Pas left us well fed and rested. The generous support shown by Steph’s father and his friends, and the amazing baking by our host, Gene Germaine, got us more then ready for next stage of our journey. Shortly after The Pas, we approached the end of the North Saskatchewan River and entered Cedar Lake. It was nice to observe the gradual change in scenery: the dense forest slowly gave way to willows and finally to seas of high grasses. As we paddled through the grassy marsh, the sound of bird calls was so loud, it drowned out conversation. We had been advised that camping spots were limited along Cedar Lake and that strong winds could hamper our progress, so we decided to take the opportunity to celebrate this year’s summer solstice with an overnight paddle. Unfortunately, increasing cloud cover and strengthening winds overnight eventually forced us to stop paddling, and we rested in the anchored boats until sunrise. We finished our 24 hr paddle with a much needed rest on a lovely beach at the start of the East Mossy Portage.
Our trek along the East Mossy Portage went very well. After an 8 km walk down a very hot and unused road, followed by a couple hundred meters of scrambling down an old trail, we arrived on the shores of a glassy calm Lake Winnipegosis. The immense size of Lake Winnipegosis was very impressive and at most times we were unable to see the opposite shore. The lack of people on this lake was surprising; we saw only a few cottages on the south end and no boats on the lake.
Paddling on the big lake was fun, even though we were once again facing strong head winds, the ability to paddle throughout large open spaces was a welcome change after being bounded by river’s banks. Even better was the good swimming that we took advantage of during most lunch times and evenings. Abby and I found ourselves surrounded by a school of gigantic buffalo head carp, it was in a way the prairie equivalent to boating with the dolphins. Due to flooded shorelines, finding camping spots was a bit of a challenge. We managed to finds suitable sites on higher ground after wading through shoreline swamps. Due to less than ideal camping and persistent mosquitoes, we often opted to spend an increasing amount of time in the boats. Nonetheless, spirits continue to be high and were enjoying the long days and warm summery weather. <Shane>

Winnipegosis: What a lake! It treated us so well for a day and a half with flat calm water and sunshine - some beautiful paddling. But on June 23rd the lake’s attitude changed, an afternoon thunderstorm struck with high winds from the south, and we struggled against a headwind for the rest of our time on the lake. We were forced to take a day of rest on Sugar Island after the wind shifted during our supper break and any attempt to escape the island resulted in a swamped canoe. This unplanned break worked wonders for us all however, and felt more like a vacation than a marooning. We ate pancakes for breakfast, exchanged haircuts, swam in the impressive waves, and took extra long naps, as well as performing minor repairs to the canoes. Due to the persistently high winds, the lake elevation rose by a 2 feet overnight at the shore of the island. We woke at 4 am the next morning to beat the wind and successfully made it off Sugar Island.
The days following are a blur of 6 foot cresting waves in my mind. Huge swells rise from these enormous lakes, the likes of which I can only compare to ocean waves. We developed a bit of a game to make paddling against the waves more fun, a kind of canoe X Games. From the waves we’re able to launch the bow of the canoes further into the air, and in mid air the bow paddler has time to do trick of some sort. Round side boat grabs, overhead paddle spins, the classic Superman pose while hollering "Blastoff!”, were the most common and served to entertain us while we fought the headwind. Next time you’re out paddling in big waves give this a try, it’ll take your mind off of the faceful or lapful of water you’re about to receive, and its fun.
The end of Lake Winnipegosis brought us to the friendly community of Meadow Portage. We were met with such kindness and interest from the community, this type of interaction was a welcome surprise after our week without seeing anyone other than our group members. Due to the issuing of dangerously high wind warnings on Lake Manitoba, we decided to take a hike instead of paddling against the wind, to switch it up a bit. We extended the traditional 7.5 km portage into 80 km by walking for two days along the highway from Meadow Portage to the community of Guynemer. So many people stopped us to chat and offer their help or encouragement, I’ve been really inspired by their kindness and generosity… but there will be more about the great folks we met in Ross’ post. Back on the water, this time on Lake Manitoba, which is slightly different from Winnipegosis in the level of development along the shore. There are ranches and homes scattered along the whole way. We celebrated Canada Day at The Narrows, where we sang our best karaoke for the occasion. On the southern end of Lake Manitoba we passed the community on Big Point where many of the lakefront cottages have been badly damaged by the flooded lake, several had waves washing directly into them. There is so much water in the lake; we were able to paddle down the street at Delta Beach before beginning our portage to the Assiniboine River.
We did the 30 km hike to Portage-la-Prairie on June 4th, and wouldn’t you know it - we had a tailwind! We set up jackets and flags as sails on the decks of our canoes which gave us momentary relief from pulling and pushing in the heat of the day. From Portage-la-Prairie we paddled downstream on the Assiniboine River. The Assiniboine is overfull and flowing fast, it has breached the dykes in many places and has transformed fields into lakes. We were able to paddle the 155 km in a day and a half with the help of the strong current. On July 6th we pulled up in Winnipeg and have enjoyed 3 days of rest at the home of Bill and Pat Briggs. I’m feeling rested and ready to get on the water again, and looking forward to the next section of our journey… Western Ontario! <Abby>

After being buffeted by waves on Lake Winnipegosis we were forced to our feet again by wind warnings when entering Lake Manitoba. We walked south from the Meadow Portage to Rorketon, MB and east to Lake Manitoba. Being on the road put us into more contact with people than we had had for some time. The exceptional kindness of the people of Meadow Portage, Rorketon, Crane Narrows, and the areas between was humbling. As we walked the temperatures soared past 30 degrees Celsius and we were provided with cold water by several passer’s by and even driven to town to pick up more provisions. Our night ended over beers with a stranger on a lonely back road. License plates don`t lie. Manitobans truly are friendly.
At the outset of our journey we had decided to try to catalogue the importance of freshwater resources to Canadians. Canada's waterbodies have shaped our history and continue to figure prominently in the Canadian identity. They are hotbeds of biodiversity, our favourite recreation sites, and a key pillar for supporting economic activity. I have often thought of them in a purely advantageous light. I have learned of flooding and drought through my training as a hydrologist but never before had I experienced flooding on the scale as we have paddled through between Prince Albert, SK to Winnipeg, MB. The prairies are a truly amazing and beautiful, albeit harsh environment. There is some irony that in a land so prone to drought, floods of this magnitude are possible. We paddled past cabins that had been gutted by waves on Lake Manitoba. We paddled across farm land that had been inundated by The Assinaboine River after having breached its banks. The water rushed across meanders and out of the channel to the surrounding land. Water continues to shape Canadians in many ways, including adversity. Manitobans continue to confront the flooding of their rivers and are working tirelessly in efforts to save their homes and the homes of their neighbours. And they continue to do so with a grace and fortitude that is truly admirable. <Ross>

The North Saskatchewan

It was with great relief and renewed spirits that we were carried through the Rocky Mountain foothills by the waters of the North Saskatchewan. Our spirits were not dampened by the cool temperatures and persistent rainfall that haunted us as we left the mountains behind. Our hearts were sent racing by the swift headwaters of the North Saskatchewan and we covered at least 100 km each day. Our speed averaged 14km/hr and surged in places to over 18 km/hr. Like Lake Kinbasket, Lake Abraham, located just upstream from the Bighorn Dam, was depressed approximately 15 m below its normal operating level. The lower water level worked much to our advantage as the waters of the North Saskatchewan travelled an additional 10km in search of a retreated Lake Abraham. Oncoming waves, capping with 5 foot crests, quickly drained this advantage as we paddled the remainder of the lake. Portaging around the Bighorn Dam we were again back with the current to our stern. Low lying clouds and fog made it difficult to see the last of the foothills as we made the transition to the plains. The valley slopes opened up with lush green grass, the river changed to a turbid brown, and the skies became animated with living pastels. For me, we were home.

The North Saskatchewan East of Edmonton moves at a similar plodding pace until reaching its confluence with the South Saskatchewan. We had decent weather although headwinds stalled the benefit provided by the current on more than one occasion. On one day we had a persistent tail wind which channeled down the river valley. We seized the opportunity for a much needed rest and harnessed the winds with a sail. We lashed the three boats together as a trimaran and rigged a two masted square sail spanning the bows. While two of us steered from the stern we traveled over 80km in an afteroon to arrive just upstream of North Battleford. Without the assistance of the wind, we averaged 11 km/hr until we reached the Main Stem of the Saskatchewan River. At the confluence, the river swelled with the flood waters from southern Saskatchewan and Alberta. Abnormally high rains for this time of year have compounded wet conditions carried through from the spring to yield very high water levels in the South Saskatchewan and Saskatchewan systems. This was evident as we moved downstream. The hydropower dams at Nipawin and Tobin Lake were running high and the water level through the Saskatchewan Delta had broken its banks in many places and flooded up into thick forest around. Although impressive, it made landing and finding quality campsites much more challenging. The shore was also made significantly less appealing by the explosion of mosquitos that served as a greeting party upon landing. We have now made it to The Pas, MB and will be off of the Saskatchewan River shortly. Manitoba's Lakes await as we will make our way south to the Assinaboine. <Ross>

North Saskatchewan River

We have taken to eating our meals in the boat. The warm weather and fast currents allows us to cover much distance before we even dip a paddle in the water. Also breakfast on the water means we don’t do dishes till supper which saves even more time in the morning. Although spending the long hours in the boats can become uncomfortable the almost daily floating naps after lunch are a crew favorite. Sometimes we wake up and up to 12 km has magically past.

Wild life sightings have also increased since the mountains: black bears, dear and even a bobcat have graced us with their presence along the river shore. One bit of wild life that unfortunately have eluded us thus far are the fish. A combination of wet nights, exhausting days, and just plain bad luck has decreased my fishing time. I’m sure this will improve as I have taken to fishing during our lunch time floats and the forecast looks good. Although the scenery along the North Saskatchewan is not as varied as that in BC, this river has a special beauty of its own, especially the spectacular sun sets.

After many days of padding the group was happy to have a break in the form of sailing. A steady tail wind provided the push to make 80 km during an afternoon with almost no work. A few trees were laid across the canoes to lash the boats together and a couple more were tied into the canoes upright so that a scout tarp could be hung between them. Ross and I steered and tacked a few times while the girls got a long and well deserved rest. A morning paddle of about 25km raised our total that day to over 100 km. <Shane>

Alberta Foothills

After leaving Sask Crossing, we were faced with 5 days of rain and cold temperatures. We couldn’t even have fires to stay warm in the evenings after finding out the horrible news that wild fires had hit and were out of control across the province, and a fire ban was in force. Just as we all reached our last dry(ish) items of clothing, we saw the sun peek through the clouds, for the first time in what felt like forever. <Whitney>

Howse Passed!

Wow! It has been a while since we have been able to update our blog. The last few weeks have been a whirlwind of logistics, adventure, hard work, good weather, bad weather, fast water, slow hiking, and a huge sense of achievement! As we look back through our journals of the past weeks, it begins to blend together, but a few big moments really stick out in our minds. 

The climb through HowsePass began with a great deal of trepidation. We prepped our gear for the big trek at a campsite with a beautiful view on the Blaeberry road. This might be the only portage we ever do where avalanche probes, beacons, shovels, and snowshoes are necessary. We were visited by a wonderful couple, Chris and Sue, who gave us a great deal of help when we realized we were missing a critical bolt for one of our expedition carts, a necessary tool on the upcoming portage. 

As we hiked toward the pass, we were confronted with washouts, avalanches, and rockslides across the road; making the once thought easy leg of the portage more challenging than expected. When we arrived at the David Thomson trail head which crosses the first pass over the Rocky Mountains near BanffNational Park, we were excited, but anxious about the days ahead. Progress was already slow, and was about to get much slower!

The first day on the trail, we hiked for 8 hours, with three canoes, and made a whopping 3 km. That night we discussed and planned the rationing of our food just in case our progress remained slow. We had planned to conquer 15 km that first day.

The snow on the trail became soft and almost impassable without injury and frustration in the afternoon sun, so we began the subsequent days before sunrise while the ground was still frozen. We decided to break up into two groups; one group carries packs and gear in two trips, and one group to carried the canoes. Our progress improved significantly, and we made it 8 km solo portaging the canoes. We found it was much easier to maneuver the canoes through the trees this way, and despite the hard work, our elation at the improved progress kept our spirits high! 

For me, the next day was tough. Until this point, the trail was only slightly inclined, following the river, so I were surprised when the trail seemed to go straight uphill, away from the river. I was hanging at the back of the group, feeling sluggish, and still unsure if we even had found the right trail. I always found it entertaining how a person’s brain acts in that situation. I found myself gaining resentment towards the group, sure we were going the wrong direction, pretty convinced that this could not possibly be the trail, and that if it was, there was no way I could carry a canoe up this steep mountain, so that canoe was going to live right there at that campsite forever, and I’d better find a tree to use to build a new canoe. All of a sudden the group stopped, me still in my sad state, and Ross announced, ever so calmly, that we were over the pass! I was in disbelief, and realized how silly I was being. We climbed back down for the canoes, and with a packed trail, knowing the length of the climb, round two was much easier! Once we made it over the pass with the canoes, the day got better and better! We slid the canoes downhill, crossed the border into Alberta, and found HowseRiver flowing east!!! It was a great feeling, lining the loaded canoe downstream, after 22 days of portaging, at a beautiful mountain river, surrounded by the gorgeous Conway mountain range. These moments quickly became trip highlights for the group. 

We carried on downstream until we met up with the North Saskatchewan River which brought a new color to our waterway! We celebrated our arrival and were greeted at Sask Crossing by the Ringhams with shrimp, steak and vegetables! At this point, our wonderful help over the pass, Kirby, Chelsey and Ben, left us, and it was sad to see that bit of our team go. We took a couple days of rest and also received a surprise visit from Whitney’s parents, who brought us souvlaki and steaks for lunch! We were eating like kings! 

So far, the North Sask has been very fun. Navigating the fast water was a little nerve racking the first few days, but as we got more comfortable in our boats and with our partners, we learned to enjoy the ride. Unfortunately, our last days in the mountains were fog and rained over, so we missed the foothills, and before you knew it we were in the prairies! <Steph>

At the base looking up

We have spent some time in Golden trimming down gear, getting clean, checking weather forecasts, and scouting snow properties in preparation for our trek over Howse Pass. Much of the trip thus far has gone swimmingly and according to plan, so in a way we are looking forward to the challenges and adventures that this leg will present. At this point, we have settled into a nice groove with camp chores, everyone is getting along well, and giggle fits remain frequent. However, our singable song repertoire is limited and we welcome song suggestions. We recently met an inspiring and adventurous couple who provided us with some sage advice: remember to have guts and pack plenty of chocolate. Our moms have informed us that sometimes the SPOT beacon fails to transmit or shows us following irregular and seemingly odd routes, we encourage those tracking us not to fret when such transmission hiccups occur; most often we simply forgot to turn the device off before crawling into our warm and cozy sleeping bags for the night. Wishing for a week of cold nights leading to hard snowpacks, next time you hear from us we will be on the other side of the continental divide! <Nathalie>

Around the big bend

Paddling north on Lake Revelstoke, we were encouraged by a subtle tail wind on the morning of our first day. As the day progressed the wind grew until the swells were over a meter high. When timed correctly, the boats were surging up to 13km/hr, almost double our normal cruising speed. However, steering the boats while surfing down the waves is taxing and we were very happy to see the wind die down in the early evening. The wind was replaced by heavy rain as we camped at the village of Downie Creek that evening. A low shroud of clouds impeded the view of the mountains that surrounded us as we paddled north to the end of Lake Revelstoke and climbed up around the impressive Mica Dam to Kinbasket Lake. The meltwater falling from the cliffs provided respite from the grueling climb. Rounding the bend to Kinbasket Lake was quite the site: Having been drawn down to maintain water levels in reservoirs downstream through the winter, and in wait for the spring freshet, Kinbasket Lake was well below its summer level. If I was to guess I would say it would be at least 30 m lower. The low water levels made finding campsites difficult as we were more or less confined to what would have otherwise been lake bed. The minor inconvenience of campsite selection was eclipsed by what we encountered on the Mcnaughton Arm near the south end of the lake. The water began to shallow until all we could see was a forest of stumps spanning the width of the valley. Navigating channels that got smaller and smaller, we were soon at a dead end surrounded by nothing but stumps and clay. After some quick scouting we managed to find an old channel that took us further south and within a few hundred meters of difficult portage to the Columbia River. We had not expected to see it for another 25 km but its length was extended by the low water and it was flowing fast. The lake bed made for unforgiving upstream paddling with small or non-existent eddies. After two hours of upstream paddling and lining, we were portaging the boats through the clay again, pushing and pulling the canoes supported by expedition carts we arrived at our campsite past sunset. We treated ourselves to a rest day at the the sunny Kinbasket Resort campground where we chatted with the owner, Rick Chartraw – a five time Stanley Cup champion! <Ross & Nathalie>