Plenty of portages from Kenora to Rainy Lake

As we approached Kenora we were met by some of Ross' family, who had brought us delicious snacks and cold drinks to enjoy on our quick portage over the Keewatin Boat lift. The short paddle to the campsite from there was interesting, if not slightly terrifying, with planes taking off close by, and boats speeding past from every direction. We spent the rest of the afternoon, doing boat repairs, organizing food, and trimming gear for the upcoming section. We had decided to adjust our route, hopping from lake to lake, and avoid paddling upstream on the Rainy River, and hopefully making up some time.
Our first day onto Lake of the Woods, we were followed by dark ominous clouds, and as thunder and lightning approached from the distance, we decided to take refuge on an island, with another group of canoers from a nearby kids camp. We had just enough time to set up our tarp and pull the boats out of the water before the storm hit. We sat in our makeshift shelter and shared stories and coffee as we waited out the torrential downpour and tempestuous winds. Luckily, it past quickly and before long, we were saying our goodbyes and were back on the water.
The following days were filled with sunshine, swimming, and lots of portages. We made our way from Lake of the Woods to Kakagi Lake to Osapisinni, to Sandhill, to Schistose, to Pipestone, to Stonedam, to Loonhaunt, to Jackfish, to Footprint, to Despair, and finally to Rainy lake. The portages ranged in distance and difficulty. Many of the trials were maintained by fisherman and cabin owners who seemed to leave motorboats on either side of the trail for ease of transport, and even though we only passed a few cabins on the lakes, sometimes there were up to 20 motorboats sitting at the end of a chain of lakes. Others, clearly hadn't been maintained for years and challenged us with fallen trees, thick reeds, or beaver dams built across the trail. Some, to our pleasant surprise, we found wild raspberries, blueberries and saskatoon berries to pick along the way! The portages have been a fun and exciting challenge and the beautiful scenery in the area have made this section of the trip truly unforgettable.
We are now at Labelles Birch Point Lodge, 50 kms north of Fort Frances, staying in a beautiful cabin courtesy of Mrs Phillips, preparing for our next stage of the trip. The usual organizing, food preparations and downloads are accompanied with a trip down to International Falls to obtain the necessary permits to cross the border into the States during this next portion that will take us through the Boundary Waters, Quetico Provincial Park and on to Grand Portage.
Over the last 97 days we have grown from acquaintances, to friends, and have now become like a family. We are together, all day, every day, and yet we continue to get along, growing closer all the while. We have all stepped into our respective roles, working as a team to efficiently complete our everyday tasks: setting up tents, cooking meals, doing dishes and packing boats, and when faced with unexpected challenges, our ability to work as a team becomes especially evident. We spend our days sharing stories, joking with each other and discussing everything from the foods we wish we had, to how to make the world a better place.
When Ross is not focused on the map, navigating us through jumbles of lakes and islands, his silly songs and antics entertain us, and his encyclopedic knowledge of world history educates us. Shane ensures we chat with the passing motorboats on the water, always asking "How's the fishing?” and with him around you always feel like your with an older brother. Nathalie's giggles are infectious and we never tire of her random stories. Stephanie, with her childlike ability to be amazed at every new site; declaring everyday, "This is the best day ever!”. Abby is always there to keep our spirits high, amazing us with hidden talents and hilarious jokes. As I look around, the constant smiling reminds me how extraordinarily lucky we are to spend each day, paddling our canoes, with friends, discovering and getting to know our most precious resource <Steph and Whitney>.

The delightful Winnipeg River

Paddling the Winnipeg River was genuinely delightful! The weather’s been hot and sunny, and we’ve been swimming plenty. The winds have been slight, a pleasant change from the relentless headwinds we’d been previously enduring. There are no fewer than six hydroelectric dams located along the Winnipeg River. We’ve made use of our expedition canoe carts once again to bypass many of these. We have however discovered the upper limit of how much highway travel these carts can endure. Traveling to St. Georges MB we were forced to remediate a punctured inner tube then a collapsed wheel hub. Thankfully, two separate friendly Manitoban mechanics came to our rescue replacing the rarely dimensioned inner tube and machining a fitting to slip in between the hub and axle. The kindness of strangers continues to humble us, whether it’s been filling water bottles from garden hoses, being provided with fruit snacks and cold drinks, or tips about the quickness of the river and portage difficulties, we’re tremendously grateful. Equipped with shiny new carts (delivered by Ross’ mother visiting family in the region) and local knowledge, we portaged once again from White Mud Falls to McArthur Falls and from Pinawa Bay to Pointe du Bois. Our boat caravan has become a familiar site along Manitoba’s secondary highways.
The section after Pointe du Bois made for wonderful paddling. The Whiteshell provincial park maintains a number of campsites along the river. We met a kind man responsible for traveling to these remote sites, cutting the grass twice weekly. He was camped on an island next to a set of swifts that were a real thrill to swim down. The cold "Busch” beers he shared with us were among the most delicious we’d ever tasted! That night we camped at a lovely perched site on Levasseur Island, surrounded by oak trees. We had a celebratory swim at the Ontario border; I’m happy to be nearing home and have to admit that I’ve missed these familiar shield landscapes. The portage over Slave Falls was quick and painless.
Paddling upstream has been rather efficient, we’re averaging up to 9 km/hr hopping eddies. I’ve nearly mastered steering the boat around tight corners and not getting pushed out by the shoots. It’s a fine balance of sticking ultra-close (often too close for my comfort) to the jagged rocks, but not so close that you scrape your paddle or get surprised by a shallow rock lying just around the corner. A few of these rocks have already taken bites out the boat’s gel coats. We’ve bounced around a few ideas for front bumpers, but have yet to find an adequate solution. We’ve had to line the boats up a few fast water sections, but by and large, we’ve been able to muscle up most of these sections. It was paddling up a narrow, fast moving section that we came across another group of TransCanada canoeists. The Trans CanEAUda crew aims to paddle from Ottawa, ON to Inuvik, NWT. Spending the night with them we talked food, gear, paddling techniques, dream campsites, and the general wonders of paddling we each enjoy. It was surprising how both crews had devised similar solutions to common problems, such as getting out of bed in the morning. I was blissfully happy that night, watching the sunset from my swimming spot, listening to their sweet guitar and harmonica playing, and enduring French banter. Following a group photo shoot the next morning, we went our separate ways. We’re currently in Kenora ON, dodging motor boat traffic, looking forward to continuing our adventure through the beautiful lakes of north western Ontario. <Nathalie>

Departing Winnipeg

Departing Winnipeg we were accompanied by swift paddling friends from the local marathon canoe racing community. The paddle was excellent, and our spirits were lifted as our flotilla of canoes grew from three to seven. We always appreciate having some company.
The day after leaving Winnipeg we woke to overcast skies and a persistent wind. We recognized the wind but thought it to be minor and coming from a favourable direction. Paddling through the Netley Marsh we were able paddle close to the reed grass and limit the effect of the side waves. Emerging from the safety of the Red River Delta in the Netley marsh we were immediately buffeted with swells rising to as high as ten feet with irregular caps. What had seemed to be a west wind was indeed a northwest wind and much stronger than it had previously seemed. We struggled east for two hours as we sought to get past the Netley Marsh to the east shore of Lake Winnipeg. With our hearts racing and our knuckles white we tried to stay calm and keep an eye on the other boats. With every crest and trough the boats came in and out of view. Twice I was jarred sideways as a wall of water crashed into my side hitting as high as my face. I gasped for air as I nervously watched a foot and half wall of water charge sideways across the deck of the boat. I appreciated our Northwater spray decks and the stability of our Clipper Whitewater Two’s more than ever in that moment. That may have been one of the longest 14 km of my life. The point marking Patricia Beach approached at an agonisingly slow pace. We finally rounded the point and the thin ribbon of beach came into view. We surfed down the tail waves towards shore. Luckily, on such a miserable day few people were using the beach and we could head for the safest landing possible – right on the beach itself. We had only one spectator who looked on as we staggered to shore. Through the break water we took one wave, then a second wave, and finally a third. I was no longer paddling. I was bracing feverishly and trying to keep our waterladen boat upright as the waves continued to push us to shore. Dry Land! We had made it. I jumped up and as Nathalie and I pulled the boat on to shore we reeled as we tried to guide the other two boats to shore. First was Shane and Abby who raced in surfing the waves at speeds of more than 13 km/hr. Abby had one foot out the side of the boat, ready to jump at the earliest opportunity. I sprinted through the waves to collect few things (i.e. sour candies) that the waves had snatched from Shane and Abby’s deck. Our second boat was in. We focused our attention on the third and final boat. Steph and Whitney had taken on some water and were working hard to control their boat through the waves. As they hit the second wave of the breakwater, the boat spun and leaned to the left, and both Whitney and Stephanie dove from the boat. The four of us who had already been on shore grabbed hold of the boat and guided it into shore. On the beach we all looked at each other with drawn faces. Faces which signalled bodies with little energy left to exert. Faces that said only one thing: ``We had made it.`` Our two hours on Lake Winnipeg were quite enough and we were eager to leave Manitoba`s lakes by portaging to St. George on the Winnipeg River. <Ross>

Manitoba's Great Lakes

Our rest day in The Pas left us well fed and rested. The generous support shown by Steph’s father and his friends, and the amazing baking by our host, Gene Germaine, got us more then ready for next stage of our journey. Shortly after The Pas, we approached the end of the North Saskatchewan River and entered Cedar Lake. It was nice to observe the gradual change in scenery: the dense forest slowly gave way to willows and finally to seas of high grasses. As we paddled through the grassy marsh, the sound of bird calls was so loud, it drowned out conversation. We had been advised that camping spots were limited along Cedar Lake and that strong winds could hamper our progress, so we decided to take the opportunity to celebrate this year’s summer solstice with an overnight paddle. Unfortunately, increasing cloud cover and strengthening winds overnight eventually forced us to stop paddling, and we rested in the anchored boats until sunrise. We finished our 24 hr paddle with a much needed rest on a lovely beach at the start of the East Mossy Portage.
Our trek along the East Mossy Portage went very well. After an 8 km walk down a very hot and unused road, followed by a couple hundred meters of scrambling down an old trail, we arrived on the shores of a glassy calm Lake Winnipegosis. The immense size of Lake Winnipegosis was very impressive and at most times we were unable to see the opposite shore. The lack of people on this lake was surprising; we saw only a few cottages on the south end and no boats on the lake.
Paddling on the big lake was fun, even though we were once again facing strong head winds, the ability to paddle throughout large open spaces was a welcome change after being bounded by river’s banks. Even better was the good swimming that we took advantage of during most lunch times and evenings. Abby and I found ourselves surrounded by a school of gigantic buffalo head carp, it was in a way the prairie equivalent to boating with the dolphins. Due to flooded shorelines, finding camping spots was a bit of a challenge. We managed to finds suitable sites on higher ground after wading through shoreline swamps. Due to less than ideal camping and persistent mosquitoes, we often opted to spend an increasing amount of time in the boats. Nonetheless, spirits continue to be high and were enjoying the long days and warm summery weather. <Shane>

Winnipegosis: What a lake! It treated us so well for a day and a half with flat calm water and sunshine - some beautiful paddling. But on June 23rd the lake’s attitude changed, an afternoon thunderstorm struck with high winds from the south, and we struggled against a headwind for the rest of our time on the lake. We were forced to take a day of rest on Sugar Island after the wind shifted during our supper break and any attempt to escape the island resulted in a swamped canoe. This unplanned break worked wonders for us all however, and felt more like a vacation than a marooning. We ate pancakes for breakfast, exchanged haircuts, swam in the impressive waves, and took extra long naps, as well as performing minor repairs to the canoes. Due to the persistently high winds, the lake elevation rose by a 2 feet overnight at the shore of the island. We woke at 4 am the next morning to beat the wind and successfully made it off Sugar Island.
The days following are a blur of 6 foot cresting waves in my mind. Huge swells rise from these enormous lakes, the likes of which I can only compare to ocean waves. We developed a bit of a game to make paddling against the waves more fun, a kind of canoe X Games. From the waves we’re able to launch the bow of the canoes further into the air, and in mid air the bow paddler has time to do trick of some sort. Round side boat grabs, overhead paddle spins, the classic Superman pose while hollering "Blastoff!”, were the most common and served to entertain us while we fought the headwind. Next time you’re out paddling in big waves give this a try, it’ll take your mind off of the faceful or lapful of water you’re about to receive, and its fun.
The end of Lake Winnipegosis brought us to the friendly community of Meadow Portage. We were met with such kindness and interest from the community, this type of interaction was a welcome surprise after our week without seeing anyone other than our group members. Due to the issuing of dangerously high wind warnings on Lake Manitoba, we decided to take a hike instead of paddling against the wind, to switch it up a bit. We extended the traditional 7.5 km portage into 80 km by walking for two days along the highway from Meadow Portage to the community of Guynemer. So many people stopped us to chat and offer their help or encouragement, I’ve been really inspired by their kindness and generosity… but there will be more about the great folks we met in Ross’ post. Back on the water, this time on Lake Manitoba, which is slightly different from Winnipegosis in the level of development along the shore. There are ranches and homes scattered along the whole way. We celebrated Canada Day at The Narrows, where we sang our best karaoke for the occasion. On the southern end of Lake Manitoba we passed the community on Big Point where many of the lakefront cottages have been badly damaged by the flooded lake, several had waves washing directly into them. There is so much water in the lake; we were able to paddle down the street at Delta Beach before beginning our portage to the Assiniboine River.
We did the 30 km hike to Portage-la-Prairie on June 4th, and wouldn’t you know it - we had a tailwind! We set up jackets and flags as sails on the decks of our canoes which gave us momentary relief from pulling and pushing in the heat of the day. From Portage-la-Prairie we paddled downstream on the Assiniboine River. The Assiniboine is overfull and flowing fast, it has breached the dykes in many places and has transformed fields into lakes. We were able to paddle the 155 km in a day and a half with the help of the strong current. On July 6th we pulled up in Winnipeg and have enjoyed 3 days of rest at the home of Bill and Pat Briggs. I’m feeling rested and ready to get on the water again, and looking forward to the next section of our journey… Western Ontario! <Abby>

After being buffeted by waves on Lake Winnipegosis we were forced to our feet again by wind warnings when entering Lake Manitoba. We walked south from the Meadow Portage to Rorketon, MB and east to Lake Manitoba. Being on the road put us into more contact with people than we had had for some time. The exceptional kindness of the people of Meadow Portage, Rorketon, Crane Narrows, and the areas between was humbling. As we walked the temperatures soared past 30 degrees Celsius and we were provided with cold water by several passer’s by and even driven to town to pick up more provisions. Our night ended over beers with a stranger on a lonely back road. License plates don`t lie. Manitobans truly are friendly.
At the outset of our journey we had decided to try to catalogue the importance of freshwater resources to Canadians. Canada's waterbodies have shaped our history and continue to figure prominently in the Canadian identity. They are hotbeds of biodiversity, our favourite recreation sites, and a key pillar for supporting economic activity. I have often thought of them in a purely advantageous light. I have learned of flooding and drought through my training as a hydrologist but never before had I experienced flooding on the scale as we have paddled through between Prince Albert, SK to Winnipeg, MB. The prairies are a truly amazing and beautiful, albeit harsh environment. There is some irony that in a land so prone to drought, floods of this magnitude are possible. We paddled past cabins that had been gutted by waves on Lake Manitoba. We paddled across farm land that had been inundated by The Assinaboine River after having breached its banks. The water rushed across meanders and out of the channel to the surrounding land. Water continues to shape Canadians in many ways, including adversity. Manitobans continue to confront the flooding of their rivers and are working tirelessly in efforts to save their homes and the homes of their neighbours. And they continue to do so with a grace and fortitude that is truly admirable. <Ross>